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  1. #81
    Retroman, these are pictures of the LCD Controller board I have cut back:

    http://s15.postimage.org/oj9hkq997/SAM_4122.jpg
    http://s15.postimage.org/774jljqe3/SAM_4129.jpg

    The white connector at the bottom of the first, and the 4 solder joints (2 are common) on the second, is what I am referring to. I imagine the common will be ground. I want to know before I start soldering, or even testing.

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by camer0n View Post
    Retroman, these are pictures of the LCD Controller board I have cut back:

    http://s15.postimage.org/oj9hkq997/SAM_4122.jpg
    http://s15.postimage.org/774jljqe3/SAM_4129.jpg

    The white connector at the bottom of the first, and the 4 solder joints (2 are common) on the second, is what I am referring to. I imagine the common will be ground. I want to know before I start soldering, or even testing.
    Looks to be a very different board than the LCD's I have.
    The connector order on my ones is the same as I posted before,

    1. +12v
    2. ground
    3. av1
    4. av2
    Not sure if your lcd follows the same design though.
    .

  3. #83
    I have cut out a large section of the board. It was symmetrical and more of a wide T shape.

    Oh well, thanks for looking into it anyway. If you get the chance to take pictures when you get back, I am definitely interested

  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by camer0n View Post
    I have cut out a large section of the board. It was symmetrical and more of a wide T shape.

    Oh well, thanks for looking into it anyway. If you get the chance to take pictures when you get back, I am definitely interested
    I'll see about some pics in the next day or so as I'm just back.

    In the mean time on a non Game Boy or LCD front I got one of those Pibow cases for the Pi to see how it looked and functioned. Very nice little case it is indeed.

    .

  5. #85
    Heh, you have brought back the spirit of Nyan Cat with you!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QH2-TGUlwu4

  6. #86
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    Still haven't had time to do more work on the RasPiBoy.
    I've been working on re-organising the internals a bit to make a better end product. I also need to clean up some of the drilling/cutting areas that I used the Dremel on so they look a little better.

    I seen some of the other case mods people have done online for their Raspberry Pi's and the Dremel work looks very rough indeed and thats not what I want.
    .

  7. #87
    I think I feel the same as you. I have been using a dremel recently to do help cut back circuit boards. When doing the internals of the Gameboy, I have just been going at it slow with a knife, files and some sandpaper. It it doesn't look neat and tidy, it is going to incomplete :P

    Also, how do you plan on trying everything down internally? There is only so much you can do with the room that is available.

  8. #88
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    Handy little adapter to reduce a little space on the Raspberry Pi. Only problem is the microSD performance isnt going to be as good as a decent standard SD card.
    Might be useful for some other projects that don't require a very fast SD card.




    http://www.adafruit.com/products/966

    There was something like this up on kickstarter a while back but adafruit have this in stock right now at half the price.
    .

  9. #89
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    Nice official overclock now enabled on the default Raspberry Pi image.
    Allows you to run at 1Ghz (default was 700Mhz) without voiding the warranty. This should really help out when running emulators and other games.

    http://www.raspberrypi.org/archives/2008

    You can now choose from one of five overclock presets in raspi-config, the highest of which runs the ARM at 1GHz.
    The level of stable overclock you can achieve will depend on your specific Pi and on the quality of your power supply; we suggest that Quake 3 is a good stress test for checking if a particular level is completely stable. If you choose too high an overclock, your Pi may fail to boot, in which case holding down the shift key during boot up will disable the overclock for that boot, allowing you to select a lower level.

    What does this mean? Comparing the new image with 1GHz turbo enabled, against the previous image at 700MHz, nbench reports 52% faster on integer, 64% faster on floating point and 55% faster on memory.
    .

  10. #90
    I am guessing you haven't worked much on your case mod in the past couple of weeks. However you inspired me to do my own but I am currently stumped on how to power the screen off the Pi and wire the USB hub to the Pi. Any advice? Also keep the project going you look so far along, be a shame to never see the end of it.


 

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